We have reached a strange place, where you can drain a river, poison a coastline, and lean on people with no rights, and still be thanked for saving the planet, so long as the damage happens somewhere you will never have to look. Follow the virtuous plate home, one item at a time, and watch the halo slip off it.
The avocado came from MichoacΓ‘n, where the cartels run the orchards, divert the rivers, and murder the people who object.
The almonds in the milk came from California, drawn out of a drought and an emptying aquifer, pollinated by bees trucked three thousand miles across a continent and worked to exhaustion in a fortnight.
The salad was grown under a sea of plastic in AlmerΓa, by migrant workers on thirty euros a day in forty-five-degree heat, on groundwater so poisoned the region now has to import its own.
The peppers were grown beside a Spanish lagoon that has died so many times they had to give it the legal rights of a person just to defend it in court.
The cashews were shelled by hand by people whose fingers were burned by the acid in the husk.
The cotton bag it all came home in helped drain the fourth largest lake on earth into a salt desert.
Every item crossed thousands of miles, from somewhere left drier, poorer, and more poisoned for having grown it.
And the person carrying that bag home walks past a field ten miles up the road, where a cow stands in the rain turning grass nobody can eat into food, dropping dung that feeds the soil it stands on, on land that has looked more or less the same for a thousand years, and thinks, with total sincerity: there it is. The thing destroying the planet. A cow. Burping in a meadow.
It is one of the strangest acts of misdirection of the age. We built a supply chain that strips deserts, drains rivers, flattens forests and runs on people with no rights, and we taught ourselves to feel virtuous about it, purely because the alternative was an animal we could see, standing in a field we could walk to.
The cow you can point at gets the blame. The catastrophe you cannot see gets a halo and a sticker that says plant-based.
Heal the planet, they say, with the asparagus flown in from a drought.