Staying in a cave doesn't need to feel prehistoric. In my experience in Turkey, it was actually quite... luxurious.
The cave hotels of Cappadocia are not a modern phenomenon. For thousands of years, people have dug caves into the fairly sandy rock of these region. Not just one-off bedrooms, but entire cities with kitchens, churches, and even wine cellars.
Cappadocia has dozens of cave hotels now, and the one I stayed in even has rooms inside freestanding "fairy chimneys" - tall, freestanding rock pillars that look like they belong on another planet (or sometimes inside a man's pants - due to quirks of erosion). Instead of being constructed on the ground, these cave hotels are cut directly into volcanic tuff that's been shaped by wind and water over millions of years.
The timeline of this region is mind-boggling. People have been living like this, in this area, since the Hittites. That's before ancient Rome. 3000 - 4000 years ago! Byzantine monks painted frescoes inside them. One of those chapels – 12th century, frescoes still intact – is inside one of the chimneys on the property. The same soft rock that held a monastery now holds a jetted soaking tub.
But all that is just the backdrop. What I will never forget about Cappadocia are the mornings, just around sunrise.
When you roll out of your bed and head to the rooftop (really just the top of the stone hill!) for breakfast and a Turkish coffee, you may be convinced you're still dreaming - because hundred of hot air balloons will pass over your head.
And I don't mean "500 meters over your head" I mean so close that you could toss their passengers a croissant. From the rooftop terrace, you're at eye level with these balloons as they're drifting between the chimneys. You enjoy your full Turkish kahvaltı spread – white cheese, kaşar, olives, menemen, honey, homemade jams, börek, gözleme, tea in tulip glasses – served on cushions and rugs while a sky full of colorful balloons drifts past you in the morning chill.
I also HIGHLY recommend a hot air balloon ride in this valley; it was one of the coolest experiences of my life. They don't just go up and come down. The balloons travel horizontally along the landscape, floating through valleys and between rock formations at varying altitudes. There is genuinely no other way to see what that terrain looks like. Nothing else gives you that perspective, and not with the serenity of literally floating through the air.
The whole cave hotel category started with a lawyer named Süha Ersöz, who began buying abandoned cave houses in 1987 when nobody saw value in them. He opened Esbelli Evi in nearby Ürgüp in 1990 with five rooms. A decade later, architect Bora Özkök took it further – purchasing his first fairy chimney in 1998 and opening 18 rooms by 2002. The government's Historic Preservation Society meant he couldn't touch the exteriors. Everything had to be built from the inside out.
These hotels are a fascinating story and an even nicer stay.
Full story in the newsletter - link in bio