My last week in Osaka I did something I had been putting off for the entire year.
I went back to the ramen shop where I had eaten my very first meal in Japan.
Nine months ago I had walked in jet lagged and disoriented and barely able to string two Japanese words together and the owner had handed me a bowl of ramen and pointed at a seat and that was the extent of our interaction.
I went back on my second to last day.
He was there, same spot, same energy.
The man was a constant in an otherwise constantly changing year, He looked up when I came in.
Owner: You again.
Me: You remember me.
Owner: You came in nine months ago, you looked like you'd been through something.
Me: I had just arrived.
Owner: I know, you had the look, the just arrived look.
Me: What does that look like.
Owner: Terrified but trying to hide it.
Very obvious.
Me: I thought I was hiding it well.
Owner: You were not hiding it at all.
Me: sits down I'm leaving in two days.
Owner: Back home?
Me: Yes.
Owner: pause How was it.
Me: thinks about the whole year. All of it. Harder than I expected. Better than I expected. Both at the same time.
Owner: That's Japan.
Me: Is it always like that?
Owner: For people who come here seriously, yes.
Japan is not a comfortable country to be foreign in. But if you stay anyway it gives you things.
Me: What kind of things.
Owner: pause Depends on what you needed.
Me: What do you think I needed.
Owner: studies me for a moment Nine months ago you looked like someone who had lost track of himself.
Me: quietly That's accurate.
Owner: Now you look like someone who found something. Not everything. But something.
Me: pause I found out I'm more capable than I thought.
Owner: nods That's a good thing to find out.
Me: It only took nine months of being consistently confused and occasionally lost and once accidentally attending a wedding.
Owner: looks up You attended a wedding.
Me: Wrong door, wrong floor, i bowed my way out.
Owner: laughs. Real laugh. First time I had heard it. Only in Japan.
Me: Only in Japan.
He made me the same bowl he had made on my first night.
Or as close to it as he could remember.
When I finished I said it was the best bowl I'd had all year.
He said :
Owner: I know.
The certainty of people who have done one thing excellently for a very long time.
I bowed when I left.
He bowed back.
Neither of us overdid it.
We had both learned the right depth by then.