I took me a while after moving to Australia to understand that while a pavlova might look simple it has fuelled a great trans-Tasman divide. Australians and New Zealanders use essentially the same ingredients, yet produce surprisingly different desserts. Australians favour a wider pavlova with a thick, crunchy shell topped with cream and passionfruit, while New Zealanders prefer a taller version with a delicate crust, soft marshmallow-like centre and fresh kiwifruit. Same recipe, different national identity. I’ll have to side with the Kiwis on this debate.