In 1984, Britain produced enough food to feed itself for 306 days of the year.
Today the figure is around 233 days. The country grows about 60 per cent of the food it eats, down from 78 per cent in the mid-1980s, and imports very nearly half of what ends up on the plate.
This is a country with some of the best grazing and dairy pasture in the world, a long coastline, and a climate that grows grass nine months of the year.
The decline was a choice, made gradually, in favour of cheaper imports. British farms were undercut, then handed welfare and environmental rules their foreign competitors did not have to meet, then left to watch the supermarkets fill the shelves from abroad.
The beef comes from Ireland and South America. The bacon from Denmark and the Netherlands. The lamb, out of season, is flown from New Zealand. The cheese from anywhere with a spare tanker.
The land that could feed the nation is still here. Each year a little more of what the nation eats is grown, raised, and slaughtered somewhere else, and the gap between the field outside the window and the food in the fridge widens by another notch.