I love all of the Späti guys in my neighbourhood. They are so nice and friendly, even the ones who have the typical Berlin face, that to a non Berliner looks like unfriendliness.
Two of them always ask when I walk in, what perfume I have on. The older one, typical east Berliner, who never smiles, was the first to ask. He grunted and nodded, which if you know this kind of person, is a high compliment.
The other one, of Turkish descent always jokes when I walk in. He calls to his colleagues: hey smell this guy, and ask him what perfume he uses. Then he tells them what I told him the first time, which he has never forgotten even though this is a very busy Späti on the corner near a large park. He does not know my name but every time I walk in he says: Tom Ford Noire Extreme mixed with Armaf Intense Man and we laugh, and ask each other how our day is going.
Once you breach the cultural barrier that looks like unfriendliness in Berlin, there is a certain warmth which only Berlin can produce: a warmth that respects privacy, a warmth that says, hey, I don’t want to interfere with your life or know what you are doing, but I am here with you, in this wild sometimes cold city.
I love that that feeling that is at once respectful and warm. I do not mind that Berlin does not make itself immediately legible. That you need to crack the code and prove yourself, that a smile is not superficial and meaningless, that warmth is earned and not frivolous.
I like that in spite of how obviously foreign I am, there are spaces where I can be anonymous yet recognised, that they do not perform niceness because of how I look, that they will be as mean to me as they are to a person born here if they need to.
Because to truly fit in, especially in a place where you are physically different from the local population, it is important that you get the full range of the culture. I do not want to be treated nicely because someone thinks they might be called racist. I want to see who people are. It takes a while to see it, but when they show it, they really show it.