文化入侵😈
A TRENDY DISH SPREADING around the world is “Chili Crisp”—there are dozens of varieties, and news outlets east and west are printing recipes so you can make your own.
But most people have forgotten the extraordinary woman who made the original, so she certainly won’t be getting any royalties for her recipe.
Which is why we'll share her story here.
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HUNGRY
Tao Huabi was born in January 1947 in a dirt-poor village in Guizhou, one of the poorest provinces in China.
During the famine, the young girl dug for root vegetables and tried to season them to make them palatable to her hungry family members.
As an adult, she was hit with more bad fortune—her husband died of an illness, and she ended up selling noodles from a stall to earn money to care for their two children.
Remembering the magic difference that seasoning can make, from her difficult childhood, she created a condiment using a particular mix of chilli, oil, soybeans and other ingredients.
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FREE OF CHARGE
The soft-hearted woman would feed her spicy noodles free of charge to penniless students, and got the nickname Lao Gan Ma, meaning old godmother.
Her food was addictive, so she opened an eatery called Economical Restaurant. It was a hit with cross-country truck drivers.
The sauce, oily but also crisp because of the chilli flakes and seeds, was so popular that she borrowed two buildings from the local Communist Party to create a factory.
The sauce became wildly popular across China as Lao Gan Ma, or Old Godmother sauce—with her unsmiling face on the label becoming familiar in the region. The sauce was featured in the recent Hometown Market Carnival in Hong Kong.
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FIGHTING THE COPYCATS
When unscrupulous businesses copied her recipe and packaging, she took them to court—and in 2001, judges forced the rivals to stop replicating her sauce and pay compensation to her.
Today, once more, Old Godmother sauce is being copied far and wide, but there are no signs of Ms Tao taking action again. She is now 79 years old, and has been sharing the management work with her two sons.
Forbes China said her worth is estimated at a billion US dollars. But she's had a hard life -- and still doesn't smile much.
Anyway, while it’s unlikely that she can recover the rights to her crispy chilli sauce, at least we can think of her and raise a (small) spoon of the fiery condiment in her honor at dinner times.
Lao Gan Ma: cheers, Old Godmother.
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