RIP Jim Whittaker, first American on Everest, first president of REI, and a mountain soldier.
Jim and his twin brother Lou were drafted into the US Army in 1952. They had heard of the Army’s Mountain and Cold Weather Training Command (MCWTC), the original Ram’s Head guys, in Colorado so utilized their 10th Mountain Division connections to get transferred.
Their boss at O&U, a sporting goods store in downtown Seattle, Scott Osborn, served with the 10th Mountain headquarters during the war, leaving as a sergeant. Osborn knew LTC Hazel ‘Ed’ Link at the MCWTC. Link had served with the 87th Mountain Infantry, then the 10th Recon Troop, as a training supervisor and in 1951 established the MCWTC.
Osborn wrote to Link laying out Jim and Lou’s qualifications: Rainer mountain guides, climbing instructors for the Seattle Mountaineers, National Ski Patrol members, mountain rescue members. They were promptly transferred, arriving at Hale in January 1953. Jim remembered “a world of brilliant sunshine and deep powder snow.” Jim and Lou taught skiing at Ski Cooper to, and served as aggressors for the tactical training of, Army units.
In the spring they moved down to Colorado Springs where, now corporals, they lived off-base, and taught climbing and mountaineering in North Cheyenne Canyon and the Garden of the Gods for the Army. Keith Wegeman, a member of the US Olympic Ski Team, was a fellow instructor and they all taught skiing at Arapahoe Basin on the weekends for Willy Schaeffler, a future Olympic ski coach.
In the spring of 1954 the superintendent of Rainier National Park, at Jim’s request, wrote to the commander of the MCWTC requesting Jim and Lou’s services in the park that summer, allowing for their early discharge and ending their military service.
Photo: A group shot of ski instructors on the B-Slope at the south end of Camp Hale. From the left Jim is 2nd, Lou 4th, Wegeman 5th. (Courtesy Whittaker family.)